Russia’s ongoing war against Ukraine has severely impacted the nation’s food system, destroying an estimated 90 percent of the infrastructure that enables citizens to purchase food. Amid constant missile and drone attacks, energy blackouts, rising prices, and severe staffing shortages, more than 10,000 restaurants closed across Ukraine over the past year. Despite these immense challenges, running a food business has evolved into a form of civilian resistance, providing a sense of normalcy, safety, and community for locals.
In Kyiv, high-end food entrepreneur Stanislav Zavertailo—co-owner of the acclaimed Honey and Zavertailo bakery cafes—has faced repeated destruction. Multiple locations, including his flagship cafe, have suffered heavy structural damage from ballistic missiles and drone strikes. Despite incurring hundreds of thousands of dollars in personal repair costs and losing staff members to both displacement and military service, Zavertailo continually cleans up debris and reopens immediately to keep his business alive. His operations focus on innovative modern Ukrainian cuisine, notably championing creative poppyseed-based pastries.
A similar wartime reality is evident in Zaporizhzhia, located just 30 kilometres from the frontlines. Restaurant owners Igor and Mariya Gempel operate three establishments, including the meat restaurant Bull, Butcher and Wine and the newly opened It Cafe. Despite enduring years of daily bombardments, severe supply chain disruptions, and the destruction of local distribution hubs, they keep their doors open. By utilizing generators during blackouts and maintaining affordable menus, they offer patrons a welcoming, secure environment and a semblance of routine.
The resilience of Ukraine’s culinary sector is further highlighted by the Salt Awards, which celebrate the country’s top restaurants, cafes, and bars. Although the original ceremony venue in Kyiv was damaged in a missile strike, organizers relocated the event to the western city of Lviv rather than postponing it. As culinary writer and judge Nadiia Noskova notes, each generation of Ukrainians has been forced to adapt and find ways not only to survive, but to actively live their lives regardless of the circumstances.
